BANDA ACEH – Hundreds of Catholics gathered for a quiet Christmas Eve mass at the Sacred Heart Catholic Church in Banda Aceh, the only Catholic church in Indonesia’s ultraconservative Aceh province, where strict Islamic syariah law is enforced.
Amid flickering candles and hymns, around 500 worshippers marked Christmas in the 100-year-old Dutch colonial-era church, which remains bare of external decorations due to Aceh’s restrictions against public displays of Christian symbols.
Despite being the only Indonesian province governed under syariah law, Aceh’s autonomy excludes non-Muslims from punishments such as public flogging for moral offenses. Catholicism is recognized as one of the six official religions in the Muslim-majority nation.
“I don’t find any difficulty in terms of relationships with believers of other religions. So far, the religious tolerance here is excellent,” said Father Agustinus Padang, the church’s pastor.
The mass was held under tight security, with police and soldiers on-site following incidents targeting Christians in other parts of Indonesia. Inside, a tall Christmas tree, fairy lights, and hymns brought festive cheer, while outside, the call to Islamic prayer echoed through the city.
Catholics in Aceh have adapted to living under syariah law, celebrating Christmas quietly and focusing on self-reflection. Decorations at the Sacred Heart Church are traditionally put up only 24 hours before Christmas Day.
Though challenges persist for the Catholic minority – numbering just 6,000 in a population where 98% are Muslim – church administrator Baron Ferryson Pandiangan emphasized interfaith harmony.
“Catholics in Banda Aceh assimilate well with other religions… It doesn’t bother us at all,” he said.
Shared experiences, such as the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami that devastated the region and killed over 60,000 people in Banda Aceh, have further united the community. The Sacred Heart Church, which sustained damage from the tsunami, continues to host memorial services on Dec 26 each year to honor the victims.
Lisbetty Purba, a Catholic who moved to Aceh four years ago, said her initial concerns about strict rules were quickly alleviated by the kindness of her neighbors.
“I really love living here. The key is communication and willingness to share,” she said.
While Aceh’s Christmas celebrations remain muted compared to other regions, worshippers cherish the sense of joy and peace their small but vibrant community brings.