In an event that underscores the luxury and tradition of Japanese cuisine, Tokyo’s sushi aficionados have set a new benchmark by purchasing a colossal bluefin tuna for ¥207 million ($1.3 million; £1 million) at the annual New Year’s auction held at Toyosu Fish Market. This sale marks the second highest price ever recorded for a tuna at this prestigious auction.
The tuna in question, a magnificent 276kg (608lb) bluefin, is roughly the size and weight of a motorbike, which gives a vivid picture of its enormity. The winning bid was secured by the Onodera Group, who intend to distribute this prized catch across their Michelin-starred Ginza Onodera sushi restaurants as well as their Nadaman establishments across Japan.
Shinji Nagao, an official from the Onodera Group, spoke to the press after the auction, highlighting the cultural significance of the purchase. “The first tuna is something meant to bring in good fortune,” he stated, according to AFP. He further expressed his hopes that diners would enjoy this special tuna, caught in the waters off Aomori in northern Japan, and thereby usher in a “wonderful year”. This sentiment reflects the deep-rooted belief in Japan that the first catch of the year can set a positive tone for the months ahead.
The Onodera Group has now claimed the title for the top bid at the Ichiban Tuna auction for five consecutive years, showcasing their dominance and commitment to offering the highest quality sushi to their patrons. Last year, they paid ¥114 million for the top tuna, indicating a significant jump in price this year, which can be attributed to the size, quality, and the symbolic value of the first tuna auctioned in the new year.
The record for the highest auction price since records have been meticulously kept since 1999 stands at ¥333.6 million, paid in 2019 for a slightly heavier 278kg bluefin by Kiyoshi Kimura, famously known as Japan’s “Tuna King” and owner of the Sushi Zanmai chain of restaurants. This comparison underscores the exceptional value and prestige associated with securing the first tuna of the year at Toyosu.
Toyosu Fish Market, which succeeded the iconic Tsukiji Market in 2018, though it was established in 1935, proudly claims to be the world’s largest fish market. It is renowned not only for its size but for its vibrant pre-dawn auctions where tuna, in particular, draws significant attention due to its flavor and the skill required in its preparation.
However, the auction was not solely about tuna; other marine delicacies also fetched remarkable prices. Hokkaido sea urchins, known for their rich, creamy texture, also caught the spotlight with a sale price of ¥7 million, setting a new record according to the Japan Times. This showcases the diversity and high demand for quality seafood at Toyosu, where the auctions serve as a cultural event as much as an economic activity.
This annual event at Toyosu is more than just a commercial transaction; it’s a celebration of culinary tradition, a testament to the skill of Japanese fishermen, and a harbinger of prosperity. The exorbitant prices reflect not only the scarcity and quality of the catch but also the cultural significance of starting the year with the best that the ocean offers, promising good fortune, health, and prosperity to all who partake in this ancient ritual of dining.